Comme des Garçons

The label was started in Tokyo by Rei Kawakubo in 1969 and established as a company in 1973. The brand's name was inspired by Françoise Hardy's 1962 song "Tous les garçons et les filles", particularly from the line "Comme les garçons et les filles de mon âge" ("like the boys and girls my age"). The brand became successful in Japan in the 1970s and a menswear line was added in 1978. In 1981, the company had a debut show in Paris. Kawakubo's heavy use of black distressed fabrics, and unfinished seams were viewed negatively by French critics.

Throughout the 1980s, its clothes were often associated with a distressed and punk-oriented style. In 1982, Kawakubo's collection "Destroy" was heavily criticised. Women's Wear Daily called it the "Hiroshima bag lady look", and the Associated Press proclaimed Kawakubo the "high priestess of the Jap wrap". Unusual styles continued through the 1990s, many of which were disliked by experts.

In 1993, the company created its perfume line, Comme des Garçons Parfums.

In 2004, the company split its business into handmade garments produced in France, and non-handmade garments in Japan, Spain, and Turkey. The product line Play, the most recognizable and mainstream Comme des Garçons casual luxury line, is produced mainly in Japan, Spain, and Turkey, while some of its products are also made in France.

Signature boutiques are located in London (as Dover Street Market), Paris, New York City, Melbourne, Beijing, Hong Kong, Seoul, Manila, Saint Petersburg, Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka and Fukuoka. The company also maintains concessions at select department stores, such as Isetan.

The company opened the first Guerrilla stores in 2004 in Berlin. The Guerrilla stores aim to be open for only one year and to spend a minimal amount of money on the interiors. The stores are also purposefully located away from fashionable hubs and districts of a city. Guerrilla stores have been opened, and subsequently closed, in Reykjavík, Warsaw, Helsinki, Singapore, Stockholm, Athens, and others. In July 2007, a Guerrilla Store opened in Beirut, Lebanon, and in February 2008, a Guerrilla Store opened in downtown Los Angeles, the first in the United States. In November 2008, it opened another Guerilla store in the west end of Glasgow. In 2004 its opened another in London of Dover Street Market.

In December 2009, the company opened a 4,400 square feet (410 m2) store in Hong Kong called Under The Ground. Hong Kong also had a guerrilla store that opened and closed in previous years, run by Silly Thing Hong Kong. In March 2012, it opened a store in Manila. Also, the first Dover Street Market in Japan opened in Ginza. In December 2013, Dover Street Market in New York City opened. In 2021, the company reintroduced its "Guerilla" stores, pioneering temporary boutiques that predated the pop-up shop movement by a good decade or so.

Controversies

1995: 'Auschwitz' fashions

The 1995 "Sleep" collection consisted of striped pajamas "bearing prints of identification numbers and marks of military boot prints." Contemporaneous media coverage juxtaposed images of the collection with images taken at Auschwitz concentration camp, and the controversy received international coverage. The World Jewish Congress condemned the collection, and fashion critic Suzy Menkes called the collection "'Auschwitz' fashions." Kawakubo responded that the collection had been "completely misunderstood" and the controversy made her "very sad."

2015: Guarachero boots

The Spring/Summer 2015 menswear collection included "guarachero" boots based on the Mexican pointy boots of Matehuala, Mexico, raising concerns of cultural appropriation.

2020: Black hairstyles

In January 2020, a predominantly White group of models wore cornrowed lace-front wigs in the fall 2020 menswear show. This was seen as the appropriation of Black culture, particularly with the use of traditionally Black hairstyles on non-Black models. Stylist Julien d'Ys responded on Instagram, "Dear all, my inspiration for the Comme Des Garçons show was Egyptian prince, A Look I found truly beautiful and inspirational. A look that was an hommage. Never was it my intention to hurt or offend anyone, ever. If I did I deeply apologize."